On this page, the tasting notes are broken into four sections: the Savoie, Bugey, Isère and Out-of-the-Alps (then organized alphabetically by producer). The first three sections focus on the winegrowing regions of the French Alps. The fourth section highlights producers in other parts of the world inspired by Alpine winemaking (ex: Lagier-Meredith on Napa’s Mt. Veeder, delivering delicious Mondeuse). If producers work in multiple regions (ex: Apffel in the Savoie and Bugey) you’ll find them in more than one section.
You’ll also notice that some entries end with “Chambers Note” – which means they were written for Chambers Street Wines with the intent of promoting sales. I thought it appropriate to disclose what was written for retail purposes. That said, every tasting note here reflects my honest opinion on the specific wine’s quality and taste.
To locate a particular producer quickly, type a keyword (ex: “Lupin” or “Paradis”) into your browser’s ‘Find’ search bar.
**If you’d like to use any of the tasting notes from The Alpine Wine Review please email david@alpinewinereview.com**
Savoie
Camille & Matheiu Apffel NY Supplier: Louis/Dressner Selections Practicing Organic
- 2018 Avant la Tempete: On the first night, the wine is clean, with a soft purity in texture, and cut by a crisp edge of assertive acid and a real stoniness. It was a very good wine. The second night, however, the wine was exceptional. Without losing any of its stern, well-focused zing, it took on savory flavors of dried lemon peel, orange zest, yellow apple and sea salt. It even developed a little more flesh on the palate, a great contrast to a previously simple, high-toned mouthfeel. This is the bottle that convinced me to always revisit Alpine whites after a night open. So much is revealed if you do. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
- 2018 Terroir de Saint Alban: This white, when compared to Apffel’s 100% Jacquère, Avant la Tempete 2018, shows more yellow citrus upon opening, with more floral characteristics. The nose also delivers aromas of salt and healthy green grass. The palate offers lemon and white pepper, with a clean structure lead by dash of crushed limestone. The Terrior de Saint-Alban transforms if tried again the day after opening, just like the Jacquère. The drinker discovers green herbs, darker spice, and more savory citrus on the nose and palate. Such an engaging and thoughtful wine if treated with patience.
- 2020 Ô Narcisse Rouge: The Ô Narcisse is a hefty Mondeuse (even though the label reads light red wine) from one of the Savoie’s most famous villages for red, Saint Jean de la Porte. The color is dense with a purple/black hue, and the edges are a lighter ruby. A grand nose of dates and plums, with black cherry and red apple skins. A smell of fresh forest soil – such a fragrant balance of earth and fruit! After a good whiff there is also a lingering floral tone – violets and roses. The palate displays semi-ripe plum and a middle of crunchy minerality. A cooling finish of candied cherry culminates with hint of milled black pepper. Great tannic form on the tongue and cheeks plus a zip of high acidity. Fresh but formidable, showing the strength of low-intervention Mondeuse. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
- 2020 Terroir de Saint Alban Blanc: The color here is a darker lemon in hue. The nose is rich with white flowers and savory, dried stone fruits. A fresh smell of sea grass (a feature I found before I noticed the bottle’s label) offers a lovely greenness with a touch of salinity and a soft smell of mandarin peel adds another dimension to the wine’s bouquet. The palate is round, with great juice – lemon and tangerine. Salt and green herbs spark the tongue, and the finish ends with a whisper of spiced citrus. Medium acidity cuts the wine’s great, lapping swish. This wine, vintage after vintage, is fantastic – the ’20 is no exception! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
Domaine des Ardoisières www.domainedesardoisieres.fr NY Supplier: Martine's Wines Biodynamic
- 2020 Silice Rouge: Domaine des Ardoisières’ 2020 Silice Rouge has a dark red shade, with hints of lighter purple. The nose is woodsy but incredibly clean, filled with aromas of lean wild plums and cherries, with a hint of airy baking spice. On the palate, the wine has a lovely zip, with red currants and beach plums. After the flavors of fresh fruit, a long singular note of tender kirsch adds depth to the wine during a fantastic finish. A moderate structure of leveled tannin and good acid complete this knockout wine. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
- 2020 Silice Blanc: The 2020 Silice Blanc from Domaine des Ardoisières is a light, vibrant lemon color in the glass. On the nose, the wine shows lovely citrus and crisp apricot, along with soft grassy aromas and a dash of minerally smoke. The palate has a plumpness of fruit that is incredibly enticing, offering flavors of yellow cherries and plums, followed by a bounce of refreshing lemon zest that persists into the wine’s finish. A touch of tannin and great Alpine acidity give the wine engaging structure. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
Denis & Didier Berthollier http://chignin.com NY Supplier: Weygandt Wines Certified Organic
- 2020 Vieilles Vignes Chignin Blanc: From the hillsides of Chignin in the Combe de Savoie, this Jacquère is made with 50 year old vines. The color is bright yellow in the glass. On the nose, bright lemony fruit and spicy herbs are accented by pepper and salinity. A touch of peach blossom adds a delicate touch. The palate is zingy with limestone and tangy stone fruit. With air, the wine takes on exceptional weight, gaining a terrific swish. Outstandingly drinkable – be careful or you’ll finish it all in one sitting! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
- 2020 Ripe Soleil IGP Allebroge: Yellow apple and white flowers on the nose, followed by a airy scent of juniper. On the palate, dried apricot and savory orange peel. Herbal, with notes of black tea. Structure is tannic, with good acid that pushes a long finish. The wind ends with a lovely bitter, faintly gingery, flavor.
- Jacquère, Roussette, Chardonnay, Bergeron (Roussanne)
Domaine Blard et Fils http://www.blardetfils.fr NY Supplier: Living Wine, DNS Wines
- 2018 Mondeuse Arbin: 100% Mondeuse from the village of Arbin. 50 year old vines planted to clay/limestone soils. A spicy profile on the nose, the wine delivers aromas of dark plum and cherry, with a dash of cracked pepper. On the palate, the fruit is more wild, with blueberries, blackberry, and zippy, zesty cassis. Medium tannin bolsters this Mondeuse, but good acid and moderate 12.5% ABV keep things fresh. The finish is earthy and minerally, with the classic crunchy chew that this grape is celebrated for producing. So good, and perfect for the warmer summer months! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
- 2019 Roussette de Savoie: Domaine Blard & Fils’ 2019 Roussette de Savoie is 100% Altesse from Abymes, vines aged approximately 33 years. The wine has a terrific nose, full of green grass, salt, lemon and clean apricot. The palate is just as lovely, with green tea, lime zest, and herbs. The wine has a rather intense finish, full of salt and bitter herbs – exhilarating on the tongue. The general mouthfeel has crackling acidity and ghostly, Chablis-like texture. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
- 2019Micraster Abymes: The 2019 ‘Micraster’ is 100% Jacquere grown in clay and limestone scree. Vines are 30 years and older. Nose is a restrained display of grass, spring water, sea shells, lemon pith, and a floral, yellow cherry. The palate has a foundation of pleasant apricot, salt, green herbs and stems. Lovely acidity, a touch of tannin under the tongue. Extremely drinkable, but don’t let that fool you. Like the best Savoie whites, if you engage with this bottle, you’ll find a lot going on under its cloak of endearing simplicity. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
- 2019 Face Sud: The Face Sud 2019 is Jacquère from a single parcel, planted to clay/limestone soils. Floral on the nose, the wine has a savory aroma, like crushed cashews, that develops after some time in the glass. The palate hosts a great combination of flavors, ranging from clean cucumber and salt, to semi-ripe peach and white tea. The finish is long, with a touch of earthy sandalwood. Layered and complex, this Jacquère has a ton to offer! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
- 2019 Cuvée Thomas Apremont: The Cuvée Thomas is a blend of different Jacquère parcels, with vine age between 36 and 120 years. Grown to clay/limestone and blue silex soils. On the nose, there is a beautiful, soft aroma of freshly milled almond flour that floats above a foundation of yellow stone fruit. The palate is salty, like the best Jacquère is, with zingy apricot and an added nuance of herbaceous basil. A minerally wine at the beginning, it grows in weight, developing a savory and lengthy finish. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
Domaine du Cellier des Crays (Domaine Adrien Berlioz) NY Supplier: NA Organic
- 2017 Cuvée Raipoumpou: From the Chignin Bergeron appellation, the Raipoumpou is an 100% Roussanne produced by Adrien Berlioz of Cellier des Cray. Young vines, averaging 10 years in age, are planted to clay/limestone soils and cared for under certified organic methods. In the glass, it’s a golden Roussanne, with a beautiful nose and palate. Aromas of crushed stones, aged apples, bitter herbs, smoke and yellow cherry are powerfully expressed. Flavors of lemon, lime, and spicy orange mix with smoke, salt and stone. The wine has a good vein of acidity, keeping this complex wine stunningly drinkable. This bottle is unique, having tasted nothing like it before, but it is just as approachable as it is fascinating. Drink up – it’s delicious. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Roussanne
- 2019 La Cuvée des Gueux Blanc: The Cuvée des Gueux Blanc ’19 is a blend of 60% Jacquère and 40% Altesse from Chignin. The color here is a light, fresh lemon. After getting some air, the nose is fantastic – bold aromas of herbs, toasted bread, dry grass, salt, and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is zesty, with flavors of mint and tangy yellow apple. Structurally, there is a hint of tannin and a medium level of acidity. A lot is packed into this bottle. Drink now. (Chambers Note)
- 60% Jacquère, 40% Altesse
Romain Chamiot http://www.romainchamiot.com NY Supplier: Rosenthal Wine Merchants
- 2020 Apremont: Working organically since 2017, Romain Chamiot is located under Mt. Granier in the Savoie region of Apremont. This wine comes from Jacquère planted to this land’s famous limestone soils – the best place in the world to grow this grape. Incredibly sparky on the nose, with firm yellow cherry and orange zest, accompanied by spicy anise and white flowers. The palate has a lean flavor of apricot accented by salt and green herbs. Medium acidity with a zippy body leads way to a finish that is soft and relaxed. A wonderful wine, full of energy. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
- 2020 Mondeuse: This Mondeuse from Romain Chamiot has the stuffing to develop very well over four days of drinking. Beginning with bright red fruits on the nose, like cranberries and small, crisp strawberries, it softens to become a more generous display of cherries and plump raspberries, with accents of flowers and savory herbs. The intense acidity on the palate on the first night become less severe, but don’t disappear all together – thankfully. Brisk and pleasant, refreshing and cool, the flavors take on some pepper with air, and the tannic foundation of the wine is able to shine through the vibrant Alpine fruit. One of the more serious Mondeuse I’ve had in terms of structure, regardless of price-point. It’ll age over the next 3-5 years. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
Domaine des Côtes Rousses (Nicolas Ferrand) https://www.lescotesrousses.com NY Supplier: Grand Cru Selections Certified Biodynamic
- 2017 Coteau de la Morte: 100% Mondeuse from St.-Jean-de-la-Porte in the Combe de Savoie. The cuvée is named after the vineyard location, a treacherous slope to work that has been tended, on and off, since the 11th century. The 2017 Coteau de la Mort is a black cherry color with clear violet edges. The nose is a fragrant bouquet of dried roses, lavender, clove-spiked citrus, black pepper, red berries, eucalyptus, and charming menthol. An earthy aroma of pine and mulchy soil develops as the wine opens. On the palate, crisp fruits of cranberry and tart cherry are latched to a core of crunchy dark minerality. This zing will certainly soften attractively after a few years more in bottle, but a blast to taste today. On the finish, the fruit darkens but remains powerfully edgy, with small black plums and just-ripened blackberries. An herbal coolness sticks around after each sip. Acidity is healthy and tannin is well-placed, becoming chewier with time. A great, great, great wine. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
- 2018 Coteau de la Morte: 100% Mondeuse from St.-Jean-de-la-Porte in the Combe de Savoie. The cuvée is named after the vineyard location, a treacherous slope to work that has been tended, on and off, since the 11th century. Domaine des Côtes Rousses’ 2018 Cotuea de la Mort is more Syrah-like than it’s previous vintage – more savory in profile. Very similar in terms of fruit, besides the younger wine showing darker expressions earlier on. Extra peppery on the tongue, with strong tannic form and great acidity. A rounder wine than the ’17, with a more generous swish, while retaining classic mineral strength. There is a long life ahead for this Mondeuse if you can resist opening your bottles… it’s just so good! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
- 2018 Armenaz: The 2018 ‘Armenaz’ from Domaine des Côtes Rousses is made with Jacquère from an elevation much higher than that used in ‘La Pente.’ The nose here quickly became rich, with golden apples, almonds, swaths of green grass and flinty smoke. Flavors of apricot, lemon, pear and bitter mountain herbs were on the palate. Structurally very interesting, with light tannin down the line on the tongue, and strong acidity placed under the tongue and along the cheeks. I finished this bottle long before I could see how it was on day two, but my last glass (hours after opening) was full of apples, orange zest, and herbs.(Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
- 2018 La Pente: The 2018 ‘La Pente’ from Domaine des Côtes Rousses is Jacquère from the limestone slopes of St-Jean-de-la-Porte. Upon opening, the wine offered aromas of white flowers, lavender, mint, and an airy, doughiness. The palate was stern, showing flavors of key lime, lemon, and salt. Mouthfeel was fresh and prickly, with great minerality, and a bit of tannin on the tongue. The next day, the wine showed much more depth on the nose, with honeydew melon, tarragon, and clementine peel. Flavors develop into savory peaches and apricots, ground almonds, with a long herbaceous finish. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
- 2019 Armenaz: Armenaz is 100% Jacquère from a single high-altitude vineyard (580m) planted to limestone and red clay. The 2019 is a glimmering lemon-yellow in the glass. The nose is bold, with strong aromas of white flowers, orange oil and lemon peel. There is a fresh grassiness that develops first into a scent of green tea and then into a great display of fresh sea breeze and crushed oyster shells. On the palate, delicious flavors of raw almond and salt lead to zingy, sharp flash of lemon and candied ginger. High acid, with a tannic brush on the gums and a medium-rich swish. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
- 2019 La Pente: La Pente is 100% Jacquère from steep slopes on limestone based soils. Ferrand’s 2019 La Pente is a Jacquère just as high-toned as the Armenaz is. It is a fresh, dazzling yellow in color. Initially, the nose offers distinct aromas of crisp green pear with accents of woodsy pine and winter smoke, growing into something more floral. A deeper fruit develops as well, becoming semi-tropical though still firm and taught. The palate follows a similar course, beginning rather herbal, with bitter apple and salinity. With time, flavors of young mango appear, before a clean and peppery finish. Very high acidity and a medium-rich swish hold this awesome wine together. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
- 2019 Ensemble: The Altesse Ensemble is 100% Altesse from lakeside vines in Monthoux, at 350 meters altitude on the west side of the mountains. The name is an homage to the many hands involved in launching the first vintage from only 20 rows of vines planted in 2015. It is darker in color than Ferrand’s Jacquère, showing a moodier, denser lemon-gold in the glass. On the nose, the wine is both floral and herbaceous, with hints of warm lavender and healthy basil, along with scents of lemon curd and flint. On the palate, dominant flavors of papaya and green herbs are accompanied by hints of salt and black tea. A distinct but faint finish ends each sip – a whisper of unripe banana. The wine is completed by a structure of great acidity at the core, but a supple texture on the sides. This is definitely not your mineral water style of Altesse… it is much, much more! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
Marie & Florien Curtet NY Suppliers: Chambers Street Wines, Martine's Wines Organic
- 2018 Tonnerre des Grès: Brilliant lemon hue in the glass. Aromas do not pounce out, but float – sliced, tart yellow apple and pear, lavender, and bitter, unripe nectarine. There is flinty smoke. As the glass warms, smells of almonds and faint licorice appear. The wine has a wonderful palate, with yellow apples, clementine zest, bitter herbs, and a stony, mineral zing. The fruit on the finish gives way to a lingering saltiness, stiffened by a focused core of acidity. There is a softness in the mouthfeel though. A touch of flesh that is hard to describe. There is something so ethereal about this wine – a ghostly quality, in texture more than anything, that reminds me of a superb Chablis. (Chambers Note)
- Jacquère, Altesse
- 2018 Frissons des Cimes: This is a dark wine – with shades of black purple and red in the glass. Starting off with the pungent smells of manure and mulched forest floor, these hearty, heady nose drifts into a calmer character, with very pleasant aromas of black plum, blue berries, pine, kalamata olives, olives, and roasted meat. The palate is full of crunchy, zippy graphite, with additional flavors deep red cherry and salt. If you’re a Syrah drinker, this is a must-try. With very solid tannins, that fall mostly on the gums, and medium acidity, boasts fantastic structure. Drink now, or enjoy between now and ’26 – though it seems to have the fruit and body to last even longer. (Chambers Note)
- 2018 Autrement Rouge: The wine has a black core with light magenta edges. The first night open, the nose was full of tart blueberries and red cherries, and the palate echoed those aromas, but with a salty edge. Structurally, it was sparky and vibrant, with very little tannin, instead relying on a beam of acidity for definition. On the second night, the nose has become floral, with dark roses, crushed raspberry, blackberry, and blueberry. The palate expresses obvious pomegranate, raspberry, and black cherry flavors, followed up by a lingering hint of graphite. On the second night, there is more tannin, on the gums and on the back of the tongue. The acidity has softened. Two different sides to a wine – both delicious. (Chambers Note)
- Gamay, Pinot Noir, Mondeuse
Domaine Dupasquier NY Supplier: Selection Massale Lutte Raisonnée
- 2016 Roussette de Savoie Marestel: In the glass, the wine is a bright but full lemon in color. The nose, as a great Altesse should show once it’s developed some age, is full of fruits, herbs, and spice: green and dark teas, white and yellow flowers, mellow seagrass, and yellow apple. Hints of smoky flint and dashes of white and black pepper float above. As the glass opens, the nose becomes more savory, with dried apricots and cherries, cured lemon, dried honey and clove. Flavors bounce on the palate, with hints of matcha and apple, freshly cut green herbs and citrus peel. The finish here, which rides a structure of soft swish and medium acidity, begins with sweet dried pineapple and ends with a classic hint of butterscotch. Complex but lovely, this is a wine that any drinker, Savoie-nut or not, will truly appreciate. Another great example of Altesse with some age. This will continue to develop for a decade, though some would argue much, much longer. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
- 2017 Jacquère: In the glass, this 2017 Jacquère is a stunning clear gold. The nose is smoky, with a little white spice. Aromas of yellow apple, apricot skins, white flowers and dense white minerals lay underneath. On the palate, fresh black pepper, orchard fruit, and oyster shell show firmly at the beginning, while a long, semi-bitter finish extends until your tongue detects something sweet – like a hint of brown sugar. This finale of quick sweetness is something I find in the best of Savoie whites and look forward to it with every sip. High acidity on the sides of the tongue and something light and barely tannic on the gums give this wine a beautiful structure. You’ll definitely want to drink this now, but don’t worry if you decide to stash a few. I’d say this wine will continue to develop for at least 5 years, but probably longer… (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
Domaine Bruno Lupin NY Supplier: De Maison East Selections Practicing Organic
- 2015 Cuvée Pépé Roussette de Savoie Frangy: The elegance of Domaine Lupin’s 2015 Roussette de Savoie Frangy ‘Cuvée du Pépé’ Vielles Vignes is amazing, flawlessly co-existing with (and fabulously woven around) the wines dramatic beam of minerality and high acidity. A fiercely beautiful wine. The nose is not as lean as the younger vine bottling above. It shows less citrus and more stone fruit from the beginning. Aromas of yellow peaches and plums, along with golden apples, give a platform for fainter whiffs of black tea, sea grass, and oyster shells. The wine remains very fragrant hours after opening, losing some of the marine qualities and taking on more spice and floral character. The palate is led by rich flavors of apple and pear, along with lemon zest and freshly milled black pepper. There is a wonderful note of caramel on the finish that enhances based on the amount of time in glass, resulting in a creaminess in texture that is beyond lovely, laying over that boldly focused acidity and stoniness. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
- 2018 Roussette de Savoie Frangy: A full nose of almonds, white flowers, lemons, limes, firm yellow cherries and crushed limestone waft from the glass in hearty, saline-laced waves. The palate is brimming with flavors of small, crisp yellow and green apples, green tea, lemon grass, and a wonderful bitter kiss that extends well after the fruit disappears. As the wine opens, the aromas and flavors fatten and take on notes of richer, sweeter nectarines, kumquat, and apricot. The ballast of this wine is the zing of glorious acid that relaxes only slightly from the beginning to the end of the bottle. A wine to drink now, but given the amount of energy packed in here, I’d say best drinking will be in three years and last just shy of a decade. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
- 2019 Vignes du Lac: From vines planted in 2015 to clay-limestone slopes overlooking Lac d’Annecy in France’s Haut-Savoie. Vines are tended organically by the talented Bruno Lupin, known for his Altesse from nearby Frangy. Exposure is southwest and plot is 550 meters above sea level. In the glass, the wine is a glimmering yellow. The nose is healthy and lean, with lemon, limestone and zesty apricot skin. The palate is fantastic, with sparky citrus and white minerals balanced above flavors of green apple, cold pear and a woodsy essence of pine. The structure is bright and zingy, with full texture around a saline driven core that pushes a long, herbaceous finish. Fuller than other Altesse, this is a very gratifying wine to sip – and it promises great development over the next few years. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
- 2019 V.V. Mondeuse: From half a hectare of 60-70 year old Mondeuse vines on the slopes of Frangy in the Savoie. Organically farmed grapes are fermented naturally in the Lupin cellar. Aging is done partially in ex-DRC barrels for 9 months. Light in color, with a ravishing magenta at its core, fading out into a clear, springy violet hue at the edges. The nose is a mix of healthy forest fruits, like red cherry and raspberry. Flowers, both red and white, accent a savory scent of orange peel and a tingle of graphite. After a moment to breathe, spicy plum, warm thyme and black pepper thread themselves with the wine’s established, subtle bouquet of flowers, fruit, and earth. The palate has black cherry and pepper, with a smokiness that grows on the finish, transforming into something herbal and minty. High acidity that sticks around long after a sip, and generous tannin that especially targets the gums and the sides of the tongue. This wine will develop with a decant. I would also recommend putting a few in the cellar, as this wine will no doubt take on more complex flavors after 4 or 5 years laying down. What a beautiful, refreshing style of Mondeuse. Bruno, you’ve delivered another incredible wine, merci. I only wish you could make more of it! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
- 2019Roussette de SavoieFrangy: From organically tended vines of Altesse on the outskirts of Frangy in Savoie, tended by the one-and-only Bruno Lupin. Vines are 25 years of age and planted to clay and limestone soils. Fermented in steel, with 20% going through malo . Like the 2018, the nose of this Altesse is floral and fresh, with lovely aromas of soft almonds, tangy yellow cherries and zesty limestone. Clean orchard fruit, like crisp pear and apple, add weight to flavors of salt and white tea. The most beautiful thing about Bruno Lupin’s Frangy is the way it develops after an hour or so open, as the flavors become more plush, with lovely stone fruit, like nectarines and apricots, wrapped around the crunchy mix of fantastic acidity and minerality. Although there is density to the wine, it has a remarkable weightlessness on the tongue. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
- 2020 Cuvée Pépé Roussette de Savoie Frangy: From Bruno Lupin’s 60(+) year old Altesse vines behind the village of Frangy. Fermented naturally, low sulfur. The 2020 Cuvée Pépé is a clear lemon color in the glass. On the first night open, the nose shows firm aromas of yellow apple, underripe pineapple, banana candy, white pepper and flowers. After a night open, smells of anise, pine and eucalyptus appear. There is something smoky to it, but more woodsy than mineral and flinty. Persistent salt and pear on the palate, plus bitter herbs and lemon zest, with slightly more mature orchard fruit developing by day two. Pucker-inducing acidity vanishes on the tongue to leave a soft structure after each sip. The finish is a cool green tea, with a lingering mintiness. A boldly delicious wine, full of verve, it should show beautifully on day three. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
Domaine Louis Magnin http://www.domainelouismagnin.fr NY Supplier: Rosenthal Wine Merchant Organic
- 2014 Tout un Monde Arbin: From .7 ha of Domaine Louis Magnin’s old vines (many planted at the beginning of the 20th century), planted to clay and limestone soils. The 2014 Tout un Monde has a black core and red cherry edges in the glass. On the nose, the wine begins floral and soft, with wisps of herbs, and a mix of warm, milled espresso and shaved dark cocoa. Aromas of wild fruits, like blueberry, raspberry, and blackberry develop with air, leading to woodsy, healthy forest smells. The palate has a lovely spark of dark citrus. There is a foundation of black cherry, lean raspberry, and a great core of salt and graphite. Clean, medium-level acidity supports balanced tannin and an elegant swish. The finish hones back in on winter citrus and herbs, leaving the tongue perked and exhilarated. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
- 2015 La Rouge Arbin: From soils of mostly red clay mixed with limestone, under limestone scree. La Rouge 2015 has a dark center and clear violet edges. Aromas of smoke and dense earth mingle with bold dark flowers (violets and roses) on the nose. There is a hint of fresh cut cedar and raw vanilla that leads to a lingering scent of coffee. The fruit on the palate is of crisp black cherry and cassis cut by a zing of salinity and dark stones. The structure here is slightly richer and rounder than the Tout un Monde, though slightly less snappy, with generous but leveled tannin and good acidity. The finish is incredible, with a touch of cigar smoke and a mintiness that remains on the palate… basically forever. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
- 2015 Mondeuse Arbin: From several parcels in Arbin, vines planted to limestone-clay soils under unique limestone scree. The 2015 Arbin Mondeuse is a dark plummy color with light red edges. The nose is spicy, with hints of black pepper and pine, above a foundation of black cherry fruit and loamy, minerally earth. Flavors of tart red fruit, mountain herbs, and smalls plums sit in refreshing form ontop a structure of semi-concentrated fruity swish, medium tannin and classic, linear Alpine acidity. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
- 2017 Roussette de Savoie: From Altesse grown in Arbin, from a parcel known as Les Rochettes. Soils are a mix of clay and limestone. Clear lemon in the glass, boasting aromas of grass, apricot, yellow apple, lemon and smoke. Flavors of salt and citrus ride the wine’s high acidity and cool swish to a finish of spicy pepper and tea, culminating in an herbal kiss. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
Domaine Famille Montessuit NY Supplier: Jeffrey Alpert Selections Practicing Organic
- 2019 Terrior d’Ayze Gringet Jonquille Vielles Vignes: From 50(+) year old vines. In the glass, the wine is a glimmering, clear lemon in color. The nose develops from snappy yellow citrus and salty minerals on day one to a softer, richer aromatic character on day two, when white flowers, plush Alpine herbs, ripe yellow cherries and lovely wintery smoke appear. On the palate, it takes a similar course, with clean and edgy limestone and lemon zest becoming flavors apple and firm pear, savory salinity and white pepper. The gorgeous finish is a simple kiss of lemon candy, which slowly appears after the high acidity and tender mouthfeel wash from the tongue. An important wine that represents the delicious future of this hyper-local Savoie grape! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Gringet
Andre & Michel Quenard NY Supplier: Kermit Lynch Practicing Organic
- 2019 Les Roches Blanches Chignin-Bergeron: A yellow lemon in color. The nose has rich yellow apple, apple blossoms, herbs and flinty smoke. The palate is richly flavored, with golden apple, salt and a touch of candied banana. A savory finish. The structure is plump with medium acidity. Long finish.
Vignes de Paradis (Dominique Lucas) NY Supplier: Cork Hoarder Practicing Organic/Biodynamic
- 2016 Un P’tit Coin de Paradis: In the glass, the wine shows a brilliant faint gold in color. On the nose, generous aromas of pear and roasted almonds give weight to airy smells of white and yellow flowers. There are earthier elements too, like white pepper, beeswax, and warm chickpeas. Ontop of the palate’s baseline of apple and pear, zing of lemon and a hint of winter spice. Structurally, there is healthy acidity softened by a jacket of tender swish. Something almost tannic brushes the insides of the cheeks after a sip. The wine’s finish is defined by a lingering hint of dry butterscotch. An absolute pleasure to drink. (Chambers Street)
- 100% Chasselas
- 2017 C de Marrin: The 2017 Chasselas de Marrin is a crisp yellow-golden hue. The nose shows a foundation of savory yellow apples, fresh white flowers, baking spices, and pointed aromas of quince, mint, and pine. On the tongue, this wine is salty, with lemon pith and lime zest. My drinking partner mentioned a certain “Ricolla” fruit and herb combo that was spot on. The mouthfeel is high-toned, established by acidity and mineral spark. A glimpse of sweet apricot adds an unexpected, pleasantly weighty flavor to the wine’s great saline driven finish. Shocking in complexity – ready to go on day one, but with even more tangy citrus developing on the second night. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Chasselas
- 2019Quintessence Blanc: In the glass, the wine is a clear and clean lemon in color. The nose is bright with citrus and accented with snappy aromas of mint and fresh white flowers. Not unlike great Muscadet, this Chasselas has smells of salty, coastal air. The palate is driven by simple lemon and rounder grapefruit, with a touch of more savory orange oil. Flavors of white pepper and salt spice and spark. Structurally, there is a slight richness, with high-toned minerality and healthy acidity. On the finish, there is an elegant touch of juniper after the fruit subsides. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Chasselas
- 2019 Un P’tit Coin de Paradis: A deeper Chasselas, in the glass it shows a yellow apple in hue. The nose has less fresh citrus notes than the Quintessence, relying instead on darker cured lemon. Fuller aromas of pear and Alpine smoke add awesome aromatic complexity to this sturdy bouquet. In contrast, the palate here is classic, zippy Chasselas. Crisp orchard fruit, edgy lemon, and a dash of salinity. This dual character of the golden nose and the edgy palate is incredibly compelling and very delicious. The mouthfeel is defined by lightning acidity and a semi-rich body. A lot going on here, especially after some air – so don’t drink it too fast! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Chasselas
- 2020 Amphore Chasselas: Chasselas vinified in amphora with a 24 day maceration. A light gold in the glass. The nose here is spectacular, full of wintry smells. Split cedar, warm herbs, and dried lemons form a substantial base to airy aromas of chamomile and white flowers. A layered bouquet that promises to develop very well over an evening of drinking. The palate offers an array of zesty flavors, including ginger, salt, and yellow citrus. Some rounder fruits like apple and yellow cherry appear with air. A touch of green tea adds a hint of grassy character. On the tongue, just a whisper of tannic structure is coupled with great acidity. The finish is of a lingering Alpine smokiness. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Chasselas
Bugey
Camille & Matheiu Apffel NY Supplier: Louis/Dressner Selections Practicing Organic
- 2020Soleyane Blanc: Mathieu Apffel’s first venture from the Savoie and into the hills of Bugey! A zingy yellow hue in the glass with flashes of green. On the nose, there are savory aromas of yellow apple, dried lemon, and richer smells of apricot and spice. After a bit of time open the bouquet softens into a more floral and herbal character. The precision of flavors here add more than just taste to this white- the lemon and lime fruits give a zap to it’s structure. Lively salt and grassy goodness on the tongue, with a great finish of candied citrus peel. Invigorating and complex, the Soleyane Blanc hangs to its grand acidity… with a little less density on the palate than Altesse you might have tasted from the famous Alpine Roussette crus of Frangy, Marestel, or Montagnieu. However, it makes up for this with it’s crisp spirit of low-intervention production and its flare of individuality. It breaks the mold… in a delicious way! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
- 2020 Soleyane Rouge: A hearty example of Bugey rouge from one of the most intriguing domaines in the French Alps. Though Camille and Mathieu Apffel call the Savoie home, they have started to produce wines from a special vines in the Bugey. The Soleyane Rouge is mostly Mondeuse, with 15% Pinot Noir, and shows a generous dark red in the glass with violet edges. The nose has a full bouquet, with plum and blackberry, along with great spice – clove and black pepper. An aromatic warmness develops, with warm aromas of sandalwood and cedar. On the palate, there is something slightly Cab Franc about it, with crushed graphite and green herbs. Fruits of red apple and cassis last on the tongue until the wine’s finish, when a savory, Syrah-like touch of black olive appears. A slightly chewy dash of tannin and the wine’s medium acidity support a core of great minerality. (Chambers Note)
- 85% Mondeuse, 15% Pinot Noir
Patrick Charlin NY Supplier: Grand Cru Selections, Becky Wasserman & Co. Organic
- 2012 Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu: Altesse from the famed vineyards of Patrick Charlin on the slope of Montagnieu in the southern part of Bugey. Soil is predominantly limestone scree. A hearty, golden color in the glass. On the nose, aromas of dry grass, yellow apple, fresh sourdough, apricot and baking spices. The palate is powerful and complex, with dried pineapple, pear, and savory orange peel. Flavors of green tea, chamomile, and white pepper begin a finish that seems to plump up and extend after each sip, ending with a lovely, sappy, yellow cherry. With air, the structure gains great weight, with wonderfully snappy acidity. (Chambers Note)
- 2014 Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu: A full nose, with lots of fruit: papaya, smashed plantains, and apricot. Above these heartier aromas, there are notes of oyster shell, mint, black tea, and grass. Bold flavors on the tongue, with baked apple, pear, cured lemons and spicy white pepper. The finish is long and hearty, with notes of dry honey, herbs, and salt. Structure-wise, the wine has a great mouthfeel, with wonderful textural “swish,” and a healthy dose of vibrant acidity. (Chambers Note)
- 2016 Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu: A fresh yellow hue in the glass. The nose here is crazy, in the best way. Crushed yellow apple, white tea, white pepper, almond flour, and lemons. Above those float aromas of yellow flowers and orange oil. The palate is full of tangy apple, zesty pear, and dried lemons, and firm yellow cherries. The finish is long and elegant, with lovely jordan almonds and raw hazelnuts saddled on top a structure of strong acidity, flashy minerality, and a ripe body. (Chamber Note)
Les Cortis NY Supplier: Steven Graf Wine Organic/Biodynamic
- 2019 Mérune: The nose on this wine is salty and herbal. Green tea and sea breeze followed by lovely chopped raw almonds on the nose. Fruit is yellow cherry and clementine zest. After half an hour open, smells of sliced ginger and white pepper appear. On the palate, there is minerally smoke and salinity. Fruit is a mix of bitter citrus and white stone fruit. Structure-wise, the wine has a nice texture, substantial enough in the middle with an edge of medium acidity. I love this wine – delicious and interesting. Drink up! (Chambers Note)
- 95% Chardonnay, 5% Altesse
- 2019 Naxide: Clear, with a very faint yellow hue. The nose has lemons, cucumber, and snap peas. A great floral aroma grows after the wine is open for an hour. The palate has salt, cured lemons, and crushed, zingy limestone. Green papaya and clementine, and a long, semi-bitter finish. The palate is medium bodied, balanced by wonderful acidity, and a light hint of tannin. A great, great wine! (Chambers Note)
- Chardonnay, Roussette
Maison Yves Duport https://en.yvesduport.fr NY Supplier: Savio Soares Selections
- 2018 Bugey Blanc: Despite being so affordable, Yves’ Bugey Blanc ranks among the top Chardonnay that I’ve tasted from the French Alps. I’ve had examples at more than double the price that can’t compete with its quality. From fruit grown on south/south-eastern facing slopes of clay and limestone soils. Aged in steel. In the glass, the wine is a fresh golden yellow. The nose is clean and vibrant, with mint and oystershell, grass and pear, with just a touch of minerally Alpine smoke. Yellow and green apple, lemony citrus, and zippy herbs team up with the wines lovely dose of moderate acidity, resulting in a wine of pure flavors and excellent structural swish. A long finish, powered by an invigorating beam of minerality, ends with lofty flavors of white pepper and mint. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Chardonnay
- 2020 Céline: Red? Rosé? Who cares – this wine is fantastic! A still wine from Bugey in the French Alps, made from a co-ferment of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Gamay, and 20% Mondeuse. Fruit is harvested in September from biodynamically tended vines (25-30 years of age) planted to calcareous-clay soil. The wine is fermented naturally, spending 3 weeks in stainless steel tanks. The color here is a deep rhubarb. The nose is a pungent display of wild fruits – blackberry, cherry, and blueberry. Crisp minty aromas keep things fresh. On the palate, the wine has flavors of ripe red currants, small plums, and a touch of zingy citrus. A minerally core adds dimension to a fruity, juicy mouthfeel. A steal at this price. For two people, buy four bottles – you’ll finish them off in one evening, no doubt. Weighing in at 11.5%, consider this your adult juice box… your serious, complex Juicy Juice. (Chambers Note)
- 40% Chardonnay, 40% Gamay, 20% Mondeuse
- 2020 Aligoté: Not your Burgundian Aligoté, that’s for sure! From 25-40 year old vines, planted 250-350 meters above sea level, on soils of limestone and siliceous clay. The grapes are harvested, by hand, at the end of August. Direct press is followed by natural fermentation, spending six weeks in stainless steel. The wine is aged for two months before being bottled with no added SO2. The nose here is stunning – white flowers, orange oil, and beach grass, sway above a firmer smell of cherry. This type of red fruit is something I detect often in the white wines of Savoie, and adds to the complexity of the wine. As the glass opens, generous smells of melon and riper stone fruit appear. On the palate, the wine has a touch of salinity, with white pepper, apricot, and a touch of that red berry flavor. The structure is the most Burgundian thing about this wine, with a swishy mouthfeel surrounding a persistent core of zippy acidity that seems to build long after a sip is taken. Such a stunning wine, and from a region not known at all for the grape. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Aligoté
- 2020 Le Bearot: This Pinot Gris comes from 25-40 year old vines planted to limestone and clay soils. Vineyard are 250-350 meters above sea level. Fruit is hand harvested in late August. In the cellar, the grapes are direct pressed, left on the skins for a short while to macerate, and fermented with natural yeasts, staying in stainless steel for six weeks. After two more months of aging, the wine is bottled with no added SO2. The color here is the classic, orange/pink color of skin-contact Pinot Gris. On the nose, there is a beautiful, faint spiciness of golden pear, with hints of salt, almonds, raw coconut flesh and clementines. As the wine opens, wafts of breezes fresh linen along with mountain herbs and flowers come from the glass. The palate delivers slim flavors of tart yellow apple, cured lemon, and a faint taste of woodsy smoke. The structure is invigorating, with high-toned acidity and a dash of tannic foundation. I found myself contemplating this wine a lot. It is perfect for those who like to sit around a table and ask their fellow drinkers, noses deep in the glass, “What are you getting?” This little bit of effort reveals a wine of great character, with a delicious drinkability. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Pinot Gris
Château des Eclaz NY Supplier: Zev Rovine Selections Organic Conversion
- 2020 Pinot Noir: In the glass, it’s a dark cherry in color. An excellent, wintery nose, with orange peel, red berries, roses, a hint of baking spice and a little black pepper. On the palate, this Pinot has a taut juiciness, like biting into a plum just underripe, and a flare of dark minerality. Great acidity counts for most of the structure, with just a brush of tannin on the tongue. Incredibly easy to drink, fresh but layered with flavor, snappy but structurally exciting – this could (should) be your next dinner party go-to… (Chambers Note)
- 100% Pinot Noir
Domaine de la Ferme de Jeanne https://www.domainedelafermedejeanne.fr NY Supplier: Terrestrial Wine Co. Certified Organic
- 2019 Jacquère: A very clean lemon in color, but the wine’s clarity in the glass is misleading – this is a rather wild expression of Alpine white. The nose is grassy and bright, with aromas of foraged yellow apple, spicy white pepper, wispy smoke and crunchy salinity. The palate is complex with layers of citrus, both raw lemon pulp and orange peel. There are sparky flavors of limestone, flint, and sea salt that keep the tongue perked. The wine has high, healthy acidity and an engaging textural swish. The finish is herbaceous and earthy. While definitely mineral-driven, the wine displays more grit than most Jacquère I’ve tasted. A delicious wine with a radical, but balanced, profile. A truly invigorating wine. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Jacquère
- 2020 Mondeuse L’Ephemere: The color in the glass is a pale red cherry. The nose is a wonderfully plump bouquet of fresh dark flowers, pomegranate and red apple. There are aromatic nuances of mint and alpine smoke, finishing with a lovely touch of candied strawberry. On the palate, it is similarly round – definitely the juiciest character of any Mondeuse I’ve tasted as of yet. Flavors of ripe cherries, blueberries and blackberries offer the sensation of plucking and eating wild fruit. Like all good Mondeuse, however, there is a bitter expression, like the slightly tannic purple skin of a plum. Structurally, there is a simple and prickly grip to the mouthfeel paired with bright, refreshing acidity. A compelling and unique expression of Mondeuse, sure to excite any Savoie drinker! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Mondeuse
Petit-Roy (Seiichi Saito) NY Supplier: Becky Wasserman & Co., David Bowler Wine Practicing Organic
- 2018 Altesse: From organically grown Altesse on the slopes of Montagnieu in the Alpine region of Bugey. Soils are marl and limestone. This is Petit-Roy’s only venture outside of Burgundy. Seiichi explained that the ’18 was aged for 9 months in barrel and saw no filtration. He described it as a food wine, in a “natural” style. Its mineral and grassy on the nose. Aromas of crushed raw almonds, dried apricot, and lovely, earthy, wet clay add depth and stunning character to its bouquet. On the palate, orange pith, lemon peel, and white tea develop on day two – after stronger flavors of fresh citrus and crisp apple on day one. There is a candied sweetness on the finish that rests on the back of the tongue while the wine’s determined-yet-balanced acidity persists around it. More rustic than the ’19, more crunchy and gritty, but just as compelling. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
- 2019 Altesse: The ’19 was aged for 12 months in barrel, and saw a light filtration. To Seiichi, this vintage is “refined and long.” The 2019 is more savory on the nose, with a lace of elegant richness presenting a combo of warm herbal tones and attractively fragrant floral notes. Lime zest, mint, oyster shell and pear add to the wine’s aromatic complexity. On the second night, a wispy, flinty smoke appears. The palate is spicy, with freshly ground white and black pepper, hints of pine, and sparky limestone dancing above flavors of orchard fruit and healthy, tart lemon. The ’19 has more density on the tongue than the ’18 and its finish displays just a touch of creaminess, cut with fresh acidity. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Altesse
Isère
Domaine Thomas FinotDomaine FinotNY Importer: Chambers Street Wines Certified Organic
- 2018 Persan: The color here is dark, with a black/red core and light red edges. The nose has a vibrant mix of fruit and spices, including cumin, leafy green herbs, black pepper and deep, savory dark cherry. The palate is just as complex, with plum and orange peel, along with refreshing notes of mint and graphite. The minerally finish turns into something lingering and smoky. The wine is rather tannic, with great acidity. If you are fan of the Rhone, you must try Finot’s Persan! (Chambers Note)
- 100% Persan
- 2019 Verdesse: The color is a glimmering yellow, with dashes of green. The nose is warm, with a little smoke, grilled yellow apricot, and crumbled Provencal herbs. The palate here is beyond lovely – one where the flavors and the structure of the wine cannot be separated. When the wine hits the tongue, there is a literal second where it is light and simple, but it immediately grows. A rich and tender palate with lemons, orange zest, apricot, and minerals. Long finish, ends with herbs and green tea. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Verdesse
- 2020 Vin Perlant: The color here is a clear, clear yellow, with flashes of silver. The nose is lovely, with airy, grassy aromas, along with sliced yellow apples and savory green herbs. After some time open, the bouquet becomes more floral, with apricot and yellow cherry. On the tongue, it is full of minerality, with light flavors of crisp stone fruit and a long, zingy saline-laced finished. An awesome wine for one of these sweltering days – and would enhance any meal of grilled veggies or seafood. (Chambers Note)
- Jacquère, Chardonnay
- 2020 Tracteur Rosé: In the bottle, the wine looks to be darker than it appears when poured into a glass. In a glass, it is a faint salmon color. The nose has a rich aroma of pink cherries and light strawberries. The palate has a distinct saltiness that adds an edge to a foundation of red berries. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Gamay
Domaine Nicolas Gonin http://www.vins-nicolas-gonin.com NY Supplier: MFW Wine Co. Certified Organic
- 2019Verdesse: A bight, fresh lemon in color. An incredibly cool nose, minty and stony, with tangy yellow plums and white flowers. The palate has a crisp bitterness, with flavors of lemon and lime zest, salt, and firm apricot. Structurally, this Verdesse has strong acidity and a lovely richness on the tongue. The finish is very herbal – a beautiful touch after such vibrant and edgy fruit. Complex but solid, the wine has the guts to age a good 5-10 years. A delicious, powerful example of Gonin’s successful approach toward single varietal bottlings of Alpine grapes. Exciting to drink in so many ways. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Verdesse
- 2019 Persan: This Persan from the Isère was produced by the fantastic Nicolas Gonin. Fruit was destemmed before a seventeen day maceration. Bottled without fining or filtration. This Persan has dark violet color. On the nose, it shows a full force of aromas, with black cherry, plum and red apple. Above the fruit are expressive nuances of espresso, mint, and smoke. The palate is absolutely Alpine in character, with a salty, mineral core that drives flavors of cassis and blackberry. On the wine’s finish, orange peel, black pepper, and dark cocoa appear. I found the structure to be incredibly engaging, with an initial edge that softens with air. After a few hours, a full and tender tannic form develops. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Persan
- 2019 Viogner: From Viognier planted in 2009, on slopes with southern exposure in the Isère. Soils are gravely with pebbles onto of a sandstone subsoil. Fermented and aged in tank to preserve the grape’s true flavors. This Viognier shows a full but flashy gold in the glass. Like his Persan, the nose here is powerful in character. Great aromas of apricot, roasted almonds, white tea and fresh pine come first, followed by darker smells of earl grey and smoke. It is just as expressive in flavor, showing papaya, cured lemon, lime zest and salt. A long, minerally finish rides a beam of grand acidity, extending through a generous, supple mouthfeel. (Chambers Note)
- 100% Viognier
Domaine Mayoussier NY Supplier: Living Wine Organic
- 2019 Culotte des Mayoussier: The color is a glimmering yellow with flashes of green. The nose is fragrant, with ripe pear and yellow apple supporting softer, loose smells of moss, mountain air, and green tea. The palate is rather spicy, with a zip of green pepper, salt, and milled white pepper, before gaining weight on the finish and showing flavors of roasted orchard fruits. The wine has engaging, crunchy minerality and great acidity. (Chambers Note)
- Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne
- 2019 Syrah: Syrah planted on the outskirts of Vercors in the Isere of the French Alps. Land is worked with organic methods by hospitality professional turned winemaker, Antoine Depierre. After two weeks of fermentation the wine ages in neutral barriques. In the glass, the color is a lighter red, with highlights of violet. The nose has fantastic fruit, showing a medley of raspberry, strawberry, and blueberry. An accent of savory cinnamon and a dash of zingy black minerals adds a lift to the denser aromas of forest berries. On the palate, slim and zesty cassis and cherry are the base for herbaceous mint and black pepper. Not a very tannic wine, it is successfully hinged to a core of great fruit and lovely acidity, and structurally softens on the tongue during a long finish. (Chambers Note)
Out-of-the-Alps
Lagier-Meredith (Mount Veder, Napa Valley, California, USA) https://www.lagiermeredith.com
